by Denis Belliveau and Francis O’Donnell
“You’ll never get out alive,” Barney Rubin declared, thumping his desk for emphasis. “There’s a civil war raging in Afghanistan! Even the kids carry guns. Believe me, you can’t get in, but even if you could . . .”
It wasn’t exactly “bon voyage,” or even “good luck.” But we weren’t surprised. Ever since we began thinking of retracing Marco Polo’s entire route in time for the 700th anniversary of his return, people had been giving us reasons why we shouldn’t go—couldn’t go—and why it would be utter insanity even to attempt a journey that would take us 25,000 miles through twenty countries and eight war zones. Barney Rubin, a distinguished Asia scholar at Columbia University, just added a few more.
All we wanted from him were some leads. Who could we talk to about traveling through Afghanistan? Who could give permission when there were no diplomats? Who could speak for the warlords who now fought each other for tribal domination? But the professor had little information to offer, and when we mentioned our Afghan contacts, he shot them all down. There was no way they could help. He spoke as if we were daydreaming boys in need of a reality check. In fact, we were way beyond daydreaming and well into obsession.
What does it mean to retrace the route of Marco Polo? There have been numerous attempts, with many inflated claims, but all have fallen short. One writer in the 1970s published a book and never even got into China! Another in the 1980s avoided Afghanistan altogether and was arrested before he reached Beijing. More recently, a photographer for a famous magazine claims to have achieved it, when in fact he only traveled 7,000 miles and flew to most of his locales. In other words, no one has taken the time to retrace the route of Marco Polo, all 25,000 miles of it.
Alone, without a crew, and using Polo’s book as our guide, we decided to try to become the first to follow in his footsteps, for however long it took, nonstop, no flights, from village to village, city to city, and along the way see for ourselves whether or not Marco’s words rang true.
We studied every version in print of The Travels of Marco Polo, and the book became our bible. For over a year we researched the route, charted maps, and read everything we could find about the journey and the countries we’d visit. Who else had traveled in his footsteps? How far did they go? Why did they fail? We consulted scholars of medieval Chinese and European history and attended lectures at the Asia Society, NYU, and Columbia University.
Despite all our research and hard-won knowledge, we couldn’t seem to conquer the biggest barrier of all: bureaucracy. With the great Kublai Khan’s golden tablets in their possession, the Polos could travel the vast Mongol empire at will, their only worry that bandits might rob and kill them—but at least they weren’t strangled by red tape.
We knew we’d have unforeseeable delays, and because most countries issue visas for only one month, we decided it was best to obtain them once on the road. Afghanistan was different. It was in the throes of what historians now call “the warlord period.” There were no visas.
Returning to our Afghan contact, we added a zinger to our plea for help by telling him what Barney Rubin had said: “His organization is a relief operation. They send food and clothes to Afghanistan. He can’t do anything for you.” It was a challenge and we knew it. He rose to it—and from his chair—and with deliberate movements picked up the phone. We anxiously watched as he spoke for a few moments in Dari and then handed the receiver to me. A deep voice asked why we wanted to go to Afghanistan.
I made our pitch: We weren’t with the CIA, DEA, or any other government agency. Our project was historical, not political, and Afghanistan was a crucial part of our quest. When I’d finished, our contact took the phone and spoke again in Dari. He scribbled down “Mr. K” and a phone number on a scrap of paper and handed it over.
“This is the man who will get you into Afghanistan. You will have to go to Washington to meet him. When you get to the airport, call this number.”
We flew to D.C. the next day, feeling as if we were living a chapter from a cheap spy novel, except that danger, real danger, still seemed far away. When we landed at National Airport, we called Mr. K from the first phone booth we found.
“Go to the Sheraton hotel,” he said. “Then call me at this number in fifteen minutes.” He gave us yet another phone number. We found the hotel in time and called again.
“We spoke to Mr. K; he told us to call.”
“Okay,” said a new voice. “Take a taxi to the Springfield Hilton. He’ll meet you there. Do not take long.”
A half hour later we sat down in the hotel lounge with Mr. K and told him about our plans, listing the regions that Polo traveled through. “Marco Polo, for most Americans, is a game you play in the pool,” I told him. He smiled.
“Afghanistan, for most Americans, means war,” he said. “I want people to know more of the history and culture of my country.” He wrote out seven letters to various warlords on our route. “Do not get caught with these by a different faction,” he said.
“Make sure they go to the right people. Whatever you do, don’t get them mixed up.”
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What an adventure & how well written! Truly exciting – you can’t wait to read the next page
Yikes!!! Talk about adventure!
As a long time friend of Fran’s, I have had the unique opportunity (through the MANY years it has taken he and Denis to get their story told) to hear his account of the journey first hand. I guess, through the years, my sense of awe at their accomplishment had worn off. Their book, however, has given me new insight not only of the enormity of the undertaking but their dedication to confirming Marco’s original words.
The book conveys the reader right into their adventure with descriptions so vivid you feel as though you are there. The Polo quotes woven strategically through the text inspire a sense of how each confirmation drove them to continue in the face of obstacles that would have been insurmountable to almost anyone else. The few images their words could not bring to life are captured in the stunning photographs.
This is, undoubtedly, destined to become a classic travel / adventure tale, one which will be read aloud by parents to their children and passed down through generations.
I can hardly wait until December 10th for the film to be broadcast in my area.
Greetings to the filmmakers. I’m an actor and director in N.Y. Theater where I have founded The Great American Play Series but actually went East overland from Istanbul through Afghanistan to India in the early 70’s. As a young penniless vagabond/seeker/self-appointed pilgrim who wanted to see the ‘old ways’. I was on a Kibbutz in the Negev desert when a copy of Marco Polo showed up and it also inspired me to ‘go east’. It never occurred to any of us traveling then that all that would occur in a window of opportunity of time and that modernization, war and mayhem would pretty much bring it all to a halt. I was very moved by your movie, though, and by coincidence have been writing about the experiences I had. ( Got busted in Herat for smoking stuff which is a little like getting a speed ticket at the Indy 500. Some time spent in an Afghani jail is a taste of the thirteenth century I wouldn’t recommend to anybody. I thought you would really know what I mean by that.). Anyway,it might be interesting to chat. Feel free to conact me.
Wow,just watched the documentry on channel 21 and was totally blown away..I have read the documentry companion book and the film ties it all together.The film was shoot and produced in a way that I believe could inspire a younger generation of explorers and historians..the film has a very personal appeall that anyone with a desire and strong will can achieve almost anything.My congradulations to Francis and Denis for this inspiring gift to us all.
As a teacher of Social Studies at Mount Saint Michael Academy in the Bronx, I often wonder how to get the ideas of history across to my students. I found that your film which I recently saw on Channel 21 was quite impressive. The film was great but the journey amazing.
It is very difficult as you probably know for students of our city to sometimes connect with History. Your journey in modern times of an ancient adventure showed a viable connection. I hope that you continue suchadventures. As for me, I take the safe way. (AH! Hotels with proper bathrooms.)
Thank you for sharing this and I hope your journeyscontinue.
There’s something retro–shades of Hope & Crosby’s “Road to Morocco”– and borderline insulting in learning about the exoticized east from two bumbling Americans. This was amateurish. My main question was “who are these two guys related to at channel 13?” because this is essentially a 15-year-old vacation video by a pair of not terribly insightful or articulate guys.
After over a decade of inordinate struggle to bring our project to fruition, we can understand your anger and frustration with life, which comes through so clearly in your blog. We can only tell you how deeply grateful we are to the visionaries at 13 for seeing the value of bringing our work to the nation. Our advise to you would be to never give up. Whatever it is you are struggling with, we wish you good luck.
It was fantastic—unbelievably presented and the continunity great. I have no doubt that this story will go on for years and years and become a classic. No one will ever be able to go on this journey again—due to constant fighting and wars prevalent in some of these countries. So glad they made the trip when they did. The photography in this book is so telling and the eyes of the people conveyed feelings of the moments they were taken. What beautiful skies Marco Polo mush have seen and the colors of the garments-Wow. It makes one feel so small in such an almost make-believe world, every one of them! Tresures come in the most unexpected ways, some big-some far away- some in our own backyards that can take us far away–in real life. So happy for their dreams—now I have them—new treasures.
From the moment I started reading In the Footsteps of Marco Polo I felt as though I was going on the journey with Denis and Francis. The book showed feelings, emotions and at times, danger. It is so well written that one feels they themselves have travelled the path of Marco Polo.
It is truly a “must read”. Once you open the book you can’t stop reading it until the journey is finished and Denis & Francis are safely home with their families.
Hi Dennis and Francis: I know you guys from the dig in France in 1984 with Gary Hess. Great movie! You fellas sure do get around.
Ginny
What a wonderful adventure. Your story and film are awesome. Thanks for retracing Marco Polo’s footsteps and thanks for sharing your trip. That’s the way to live and for us to learn.
This was the best thing I saw on TV all year. I’ll watch it again if you can tell me the next time it’s on Channel 13.
Awesome job Denis! Marco Polo is a world apart from the Terrace, Jean Dohnson, Peter Nipnah and Field Day. Keep up the great work.
Hi Dennis and Francis, I just had to watch the video again and now, reading your starting point, I find myself wondering how fortunate and lucky and smart and most of all brave in taking this journey. Please write more about your journey. Both of you are truly gifted.
Best to You,
Kris Balch
Thanks Kris! Please get our book if you want to read a more about the journey. It is in all the book stores or you can order here or on Amazon.
Dobbs Ferry loves the Marco Polo “guys”. Our Freshman class watched the whole video and Fran came to our school to share more stories. Everyone thought it was inspirational. You’ve encouraged many kids to go out and see the world. We can’t wait for them to return next year!
Shows what ‘ordinary’ guys can accomplish!
An example for all of us ‘arm-chair-adventurers’
How are you Dennis and Francis? I just saw your documentary on PBS last night and was amazed by your journey. Actually I am a 23 yr. old from MN who is on the cusp of my own world wide adventure, which I will be starting in Japan this fall. So I would like to ask: (1) How did you transfer or transport the money you used for this trip through the more dangerous and remote regions? And (2) I saw that you guys did bring back some artifacts (such as the saddle), so how did you haul such a large item like that around? Or did you just mail it home?
It seems like you guys check up on this blog so I hope you see this and are able to respond in your own time. Thanks for your story!
Hi Denis & Francis,
I did buy the book and I am nearly finished reading it. What a great adventure. Your photographs are great. If you ever need any advice on high speed video for any future adventures, I am the guy. I have nearly 27 years in the business. To understand what you can do with high speed video, check out timewarp on Discovery or photron.com.
Best,
Kris Balch
Denis & Francis,
Thoroughly enjoyed your documentary and excellent photography as well, parts of it were quite moving. I am curious to know what your opinion is on the three American hikers who are now evidently detained in Iran? Would it be safe to say your adventure cannot be repeated by Americans?
A truly inspirational journey of great magnitude, absolutely mesmerizing. Kudos to both Denis and Francis for bringing this incredible voyage into the lives of its viewers. A very heartfelt thank you for sharing your experience.
Aloha! yeq
Hi, Denis and Francis-
Great stuff! I saw the program, got the book and even saw Denis speak about the adventure. The pictures in the book are just fantastic with color and texture. It’s all really inspirational and thought provoking. Just beware, guys: you may be responsible for encouraging people to do crazy things!
Thanks for sharing good stories
Admiral Nelson~
Wow!
Thank you for sharing your vision and allowing us to accompany you on this magnificent adventure. I admire your drive and fortitude. But, most of all I admire your enlightened and authentic respect for the cultures and people of our world. I applaud your determination in immersing yourselves in local cultures so that we may all learn more about how others live.
Your viewers horizons have most certainly been broadened by your efforts. Hopefully, your work can inspire us all to be more respectful and engaged with others on this planet we all share.
I’m also hoping your success will motivate many others to embark on their own travels of understanding and discovery.
Bravo, Francis and Dennis!
Maureen
Everytime I learn more about the re-tracing,of
Marco Polo’s Footsteps,the adventure becomes that
much more fascinating! I love the scope this adventure captures, and the feel of this documentary is tremendous on so many different
levels. I give my most sincere and profound thanks to Francis and Denis for sharing their historic adventure with us. This guys are definately my Heros.
Amazing…..film.
I had worked at Sikorsky … so I was stunned when they pulled out the picture of the chinese and the Sikorsky international team in order to escape the Chinese military police. I actually saw some people that I knew personally. Additionally, I had to facebook a few other x – sikorsky friend to tell them the story…. I would love to get a copy of that picture…
Bravo…. I plan to purchase the film.